Aluu & tikilluarit to
The Greenland Dairies
My name is Charlotte Workman and I am part of the team at The Adventure Photographers.
In spring of 2022 I was on assignment in a very remote region of eastern Greenland, partaking in an exploratory splitboard expedition.
I was with two others - Tom & James. Both airline pilots, both fierce advocates for the environment.
Over 6 weeks we travelled self-supported on sea ice, through frozen river valleys and into the towering Stauning Alps where we hoped to climb never before summited mountains.
I was tasked with documenting the adventure and creating a film that tackles the conflicts of living, working and adventuring in our time of climate crisis.
It was the hardest job of my life.
These are my personal diaries from the trip.
*These entries may be edited ever so slightly from pen on page to suit the online medium (and to correct some awful spelling), but otherwise reflect my immediate personal experience of the expedition*
01 Let's Go | Flying from Iceland to one of the most remote airports in the world
A little wisp of a cloud passes over a vivid white capped sea. We pass over higher still in our 16 seat Twin Otter plane.
Just 10 of us - that’s including the pilots - are heading north. The sloping mountains and glacial valleys of Iceland disappear into the shining south.
We’re heading to Nerlerit Inaat - AKA Constable Point. It’s a tiny airport, one of the smallest in the world, and the live in staff of 10 await our arrival.
For now, my gaze falls through the small circular window to an infinite horizon of white fluffy clouds.
Tom taps me on the shoulder
“Did you bring a compass?”
The navigation leader of the expedition looks hopeful at me.
His face falls at my response. I did not.
Heat radiates from the floor of the plane. We take our ski and snowboard boots off. Hopefully the smell won't bother the 5 other passengers... It’s nothing compared to what it will be in 6 weeks!
Our journey through Iceland was brief, but it served as a wonderful taster of the characteristically desolate landscape and the darkly humoured Icelandic hospitality.
Akureyri airport doesn't require passports
A morning of stress melted away when the man behind the check-in desk shrugged off our extra 38kg of luggage. It was an oversight I was imagining would ruin our exped before ever getting to Greenland.
Elated, we gifted them miniature bottles of vodka as a thank you (the boys seem to have endless supply of these. Must be a pilot thing).
As we sipped complimentary coffee in the small canteen, the check-in man brought us gifts of dried fish jerky
“Chew it for a long time”
Dry and rough on the outset, time invested releases a deeper appreciation and nutrition for the body and mind.
Once the pilots on the table next to us finish their relaxed lunch, our little gaggle of passengers - 2 tourists and 3 nurses - step outside and board the tiny plane. As the props start their hypnotic rhythm and the engine ramps up, we buckle in.
The pilot looks over his shoulder, gives us a thumbs up.